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Writer's pictureLisa

2020 February: Cruise to Key West (Week 2)

Track log: Check out Ray's new track log (on the main page - "Home" above, or at https://n37scout.wixsite.com/travels). Below is a sample picture.


From the main page, scroll down to the map and zoom in/out to see our travel legs.


Our latest cruise route is red. If you zoom in enough you will see where we stopped. If we anchored, you will see an anchor symbol; otherwise, you will see a boat/water symbol. If you click on one of the line segments, it will show some boat statistics for that route. Ray has also added a mug symbol where he found a brewery.




First stop - Ft. Lauderdale: We left the West Palm Beach anchorage early since there were several bridges along the planned route that required us to request an opening.



Mar a Lago: The first bridge opening we needed is right in front of Mar a Lago. The sun was rising behind it as we waited. The president and first lady had been there for the weekend, but they must have already been gone, since no armed security boats ventured out toward us, as we waited for the bridge to open. (I thought WE were getting an early start!)




Planning for Bridges: Some bridges open only on request. Others are on an hourly or half-hourly schedule, and we refer to Active Captain and other cruising guides to determine whether the schedule is for the hour, quarter-hour, half-hour, or three-quarter hour. Still others are always open unless in use (mostly railroad tracks); in this case there are usually visual signals (red flashing lights) and audible warnings.


Along with the bridge information in Active Captain on the nautical charts, we also use binoculars to view the "tide board" (height mark) at each bridge, since high tide will reduce the bridge clearance and low tide will increase it. This helps us determine if we would fit under the bridge or not.




SCOUT is configured to enable folding down the VHF radio antennas and/or the mast (which holds the anchor light, radar, and horn). As we approach a bridge, we determine our bridge strategy -- lower antennas/mast and/or request bridge opening, or cruise through at full "air draft".


NOTICE (at this bridge): Unnecessary opening due to not lowering antenna, outrigger, etc. may result in a fine up to $1100.00




Ray created a laminated "cheat sheet" to reference when approaching bridges to compare SCOUT's various "air drafts" (vertical clearance) with posted bridge clearances. It also has lengths, beam (width), and draft (depth) dimensions for making marina reservations.




It's always a little nerve-wracking when we decide to proceed under a "low" bridge without opening. The bridge below was showing 26-27 ft. clearance.




With our antennas lowered, we need 20 ft. Five feet looks alot less as we pass under!



We had to open 10 bridges on the way to Ft. Lauderdale! Fortunately, we were only travelling 40 nautical miles. Since we left at sunrise, we arrived at Bahia Mar Marina around 3:00 pm.


We were both worn out from heavy traffic and stressful bridge waits in strong current, but we had chores. The reason we reserved a marina was to pump-out (toilet waste), top off the water tanks, and do laundry before heading into the Florida keys.


Cruising Lesson Learned: If you are staying in a marina primarily for pump-out, confirm, before making your reservation, that you can get a pump-out during your planned stay. And ask if you need to be put on a list to get the pump-out.


After paying the dock hand (ran our credit card right at the slip), we asked for a pump-out. The dock-hand said "It probably won't be today. There are still 5 boats on the list, and we close at 6:00. It'll probably be tomorrow morning; we start pump-outs at 9:30."


What?!!! We had planned to get chores done today and head out at sunrise to get beyond Miami.


Ray called the dockmaster's office, who said "No guarantees, but we'll try to get to you tonight." Fortunately, the marina did our pump-out before they closed at 6:00 pm. Whew!


Making Coin Laundry Fun: Bahia Mar Marina is onsite of a nice Doubletree by Hilton, and marina guests can use all the amenities. We didn't get to use the fun amenities, since our primary purpose was chores, but Ray did get to enjoy a beverage while we waited for our laundry that evening.




We also strolled through the marina park, near the waterfront, where we got a closer look at some of the huge yachts berthed in the marina.




Literary Landmark: Slip F-18 of Bahia Mar Marina was the first site chosen by the National Register of Literary Landmarks (begun in 1986) -- even before Edgar Allen Poe's homes. Avid readers (not I) may know that slip F-18 is where John D. MacDonald's fictional character Travis McGee kept his houseboat, Busted Flush. According to Wikipedia, all titles in this series include a color -- a mnemonic device suggested by his publisher so that when harried travelers in airports looked to buy a book, they could at once see those MacDonald titles they had not yet read. (More clever marketing.)



A lot of Boats/Yachts and Beautiful homes in the Ft. Lauderdale/Miami Area: I'll include some photos at the bottom of the post.



Second stop - Boca Chita: We left early from Ft. Lauderdale, to get beyond Miami and into Biscayne Bay. Thankfully, today was easier and shorter than yesterday. With our antennas still lowered, we only had to wait for 3 bridges to open.


Two cruise ships were docked at Port Everglades.



We passed close to the Miami high-rise skyline, but across the bay from Miami Stadium (so no good photos).



Panoramic....




We were both happy to get Miami behind us (seen in the photo below) and enter the open waters of Biscayne Bay. Now, that we were done with bridge openings, Ray went up top to put the antennas back up. (I'm proud of him for remembering his auto-inflating lifejacket!) Usually, I stand at the helm when he leaves it, but we were well clear of traffic at this point, so I felt safe to come snap a quick photo.)




Green Water: You know you're near the keys when the water in your sea chest is translucent green! (Remember, the sea chest supplies water for the 2 engines, the 2 air conditioners, and the generator.)




Stiltsville: Biscayne Bay in encompassed mostly by Biscayne National Park. We passed, at some distance, one of the places now managed by the Nataional Park Service -- it is called Stiltsville. These are houses and buildings built out in the open water on Biscayne Bay.


Below is the Miami Springs Power Boat Club, which operated until 2000, when the 25-year lease expired and was not renewed by the National Park Service.





The first shack on stilts was built in the 1930's, and later destroyed by Hurricane King of 1950. Over the years more buildings were constructed, and the area took on an aura of mystery. Accessible only by water, the area was the place to see and be seen when visiting the winter resorts on nearby Miami Beach.


Below, the The Baldwin-Sessions House (left) and the Jimmy Ellenburg House (right).




At its peak in 1960, there were 27 structures; after Hurricane Andrew in 1992, only seven buildings remained (some had been destroyed by fires or other means before then). In 1985, the bottom land became part of Biscayne National Park.


Stiltsville has been featured in literature, movies and TV, including Dexter (I could not determine which episode) and Miami Vice (season 2 episode 3).



Early afternoon arrival: We arrived early afternoon, and tied up to the concrete wall of Boca Chita Harbor. There were about 3 other boats there already.



We took a stroll over to the ocean side of the island and stuck our toes in the water - still a little cold.


Some locals who were there for the day, said the water will be warm enough for them to swim in about 6 weeks (late March/early April).



That afternoon, we also got to go up for a look in the lighthouse, which is only opened when a ranger or tour guide is on the island (from the mainland) to open it. (Boca Chita Key is only accessible by boat).



From the top of the lighthouse, the water was clear enough for us to see 2 sharks on the bay. One was close enough to see that is was a black tip.








Ray captured a drone video of Boca Chita Key.




Kayaking: The next morning, though the winds were picking up a little -- from the east (the ocean side), we were able to kayak on the bay side of the small island. (I almost chickened out, based on the shark sightings the day before, but Ray promised to stay close and escort me back whenever I was ready to quit.)




We saw a large starfish, distorted a little from the breeze on the water.








Ray escorted me back to the boat and continued paddling on the inlet near the lighthouse.


Just as I got my kayak secured, a tour group arrived, so I went over to listen to the lighthouse information.


I learned the difference between an island and a key: an island is geological; a key is biological. A key is formed atop a coral reef.



The lighthouse was built by private owners from Miami limestone (structure) and Key Largo limestone (trim). There was never an operating light.


The tour guide said the family built the lighthouse on the "wrong side" of the island, since it was built to help them find their way from the mailand. Several ships wrecked (oceanside) by travelling toward the lighthouse.




I walked to the top of the lighthouse again, and captured a picture of Ray kayaking in the bay. Gorgeous water. And no sharks in sight!





Ray enjoyed a lazy afternoon in the hammock (on the cockpit).



Alert for future visitors to Boca Chita: Boca Chita Key is a small island. There is a hiking trail in the wooded portion of the island (about half), but it was thick with biting bugs. We planned to hike, wearing long pants, long sleeves, and Deet spray, but could not stand the bugs while only a few feet in to the woods.


I read that by summer, the bugs will be bad even in the open portion of the island, and rangers who visit the island will be wearing full mosquito suits.



Winds: We stayed at Boca Chita 3 nights, waiting out some windy weather, which finally arrived Friday morning. The strongest wind we recorded was about 35-40 mph, but we were secure in the harbor.




Fortunately, the storm passed quickly, and we felt comfortable cruising out of Boca Chita by noon. We were ready to move on toward Key West.



We have a leak: Stuck on the small island for 3 days, we had extra time to do a few chores. While doing routine engine room checks, Ray spotted a small leak in the generator thru-hull. (Remember the glowing green water in the sea chest, above?) Ray suspects the problem is a deteriorating seal -- not a cracked/deteriorated component.


We have bilge pumps in the engine room that will pump out water that gets above a certain level. We also do regular engine room checks during our travel days.


With the unexpected leak, we will cruise on down the keys to Marathon, where we will try to get the boat hauled out of the water so Ray can repair the leak.


Marathon was the next planned stop, to wait for good weather to cruise over to Key West.


"Inside" vs. "Outside" Route: Travelling the Atlantic, along the keys, there are 2 Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) options: the inside route through the rivers, bays and mangroves; the outside route between the keys and the coral reefs (Hawk Channel).


Below Marathon, the outside route is the only option, so generally, cruisers hang out in Marathon waiting for the right wind direction/speed to produce safe and comfortable sea conditions (to avoid seasickness).


Third stop - Key Largo: We left Boca Chita Key mid-day. It was cloudy, so we couldn't really enjoy the beautiful clear water, but fortunately, there was no rain.



Ray, Check your track -- turn right! Looks like we are headed to Cuba!


As Ray is at the helm most of the day, I am in the navigator (nav) seat, reviewing our route, upcoming track, referencing cruising guides for alerts, referencing Google Maps for nearby sites of interest, etc.


At one point, I zoomed out on my electronic chart (Navionics) on the tablet, and was a little shocked how "close" it seemed we were to Cuba.













We made it to a pleasant, quiet anchorage near Key Largo around 5:00 pm.


Ray got a great picture of the "Snow Moon" from our anchorage!




Last stop this week - Marathon: We left the anchorage very early since we anticipated a long cruising day to Marathon, snaking through rivers and mangroves.


But we never would have imagined how many crab/lobster pots we would be dodging! You don't want to drive over a pot and potentially damage or get a line tangled in a propeller or shaft, and you don't want to inadvertently drag a pot with you until it decides to break loose or you need to be hauled out.


It was windier today. Wind creates waves, which make the pots harder to spot (as they dip below the waves). Constantly dodging thousands of crab pots make travel very aggravating.


Going "outside": By noon, the winds were subsiding a little -- down to 10-15 mph. Since the wind was from the north/northeast, and we were headed south/southwest, Ray decided to move to the outside route. Hopefully there would be fewer crab pots!


Generally, the waves created by wind are less comfortable if they are on your beam (side).


Since this would be our first cruise "outside", I immediately texted our son with the specific plan, so he could watch for our updates along the way. (I was so happy to have a mature son with boating experience to fall back on!)




Fortunately, Ray's projections were accurate. The ride was safe and comfortable. I only got a little queasy as we crossed over the inlet from inside to outside. (Water in the inlets can be turbulent like a washing machine, caused by currents flowing in/out of the inlet in an opposite direction from the wind.)



Though we still had a few crab/lobster pots to dodge "outside", we made much better time, and arrived to Marathon early afternoon. After settling SCOUT into her slip, we showered and walked a few feet (past the pool) to the tiki bar at the onsite restaurant.




So, after our 2nd week of cruising, we will relax here for a few days. (Oh yeah, we'll also have a work day, hauling the boat and repairing the leak.)



Beautiful Homes in Ft. Lauderdale/Miami Area:






I thought this mobile home park in Delray -- with a small marina -- might be just right for us one day. But I googled it, and what?.....these homes range from 250K to 1.2M! The park is actually an incorporated town, Briney Breezes.





This small island of estates was interesting -- like landscaping for the high-rise condos behind it.




Interesting Boats/Yachts in Ft. Lauderdale/Miami Area:


Do you think the owner of this boat is a plastic surgeon?




Gorgeous old cruiser, NADAN. Most cruisers love the look of all that shiny teak, but are very thankful it isn't on their own boat.




Dallas Cowboys fans will be interested in this 357-foot mega yacht, owned by Jerry Jones. Google says it was docked in Miami for the Superbowl. (We passed through Miami on Feb. 4th -- 2 days after Super Bowl LIV. The yacht is named for Jones' wife, Gene, and includes: 2 helipads, a sauna, steam room, swimming pool and a gym.





This stealthy yacht has a holicopter and a few other "under-cover" toys. The symbol on the side looks like a couple of music notes, so I wondered if it is owned by someone in the music business. Nope. After zooming in on the picture, I saw what looks like "PLAN B" and Google (photos) confirmed it. So, the "music notes" must be "pb". The ship was built by the Royal Australian Navy (RAN), and later sold to civilians who now have it in charter.







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