Great Loop Overall Statistics to date:
Statute Miles: 2842.7
Average Miles/Day: 49
Total Hours Underway: 388.2
Average speed (mph): 7.4
States Transited: 12
Total Days: 134
Travel Days: 58
Locks: 43
Fuel Purchased: 680.5
Miles / Gallon: 3.5
Nights at Extra Days
Marinas: 33 69
Anchor: 15 3
City dock: 3 0
Free Wall: 8 4
Mooring: 0 0
Travel Day 55 Leaving St. Clair
Glassy water, no wind. Sunrise over lake spectacular. First part of river (St. Clair Cutoff channel) had 1-1.5kn foul current. Stayed near edges of main channel to alleviate some of the current against the boat. 2kn of current near Marine City. Just before the town of St. Clair we saw for a short time 3 + knots of current and one and a half foot standing waves due to the current in the middle of the St. Clair River. Opened 2 bridges on the way into the Black River and tied up at the River Street Marina (now a Michigan DNR marina). 3 slip (re)assignments/attempts, in real time, failed due to our width and/or bad pilings. Shuffling around between perpendicular slip assignments in the river's 1/2 knot current was a challenge.
Travel Day 56 Leaving Port Huron
Opened the two down-bound bridges at 6:00am. Thankfully the operators were on-site early to let us through because we had a long day ahead. Lake Huron was calm this morning and we quickly left the 3.5kn current of the St. Clair River and were back up to our 6.5 knot normal speed out on the lake within an hour. Seas stay calm at one foot or less from behind all day. I continue to be surprised at how far a wake from another boat can travel on the Great Lakes. We were "waked" several times by boats that were 3-5 miles away! Wind started on the port bow at 5mph, slowed and then veered to fill in aft at around 10mph. Arrived in good time at Harbor Beach, averaging 7.2 knots of boat speed out on the lake. The harbor breakwater has an opening to the south and the small southerly swell made it a bit rolly at anchor as the waves wrapped around the easterly point of the harbor, but it was tolerable after a long day underway.
Travel Day 57 Leaving Harbor Beach
Spent 30 minutes getting the anchor up -- cleaning the thick grass wrapped around the chain as it came up. Huge clump came up on anchor itself. Calm day outside of the breakwater heading north. 7mph west wind expected to die off even more by mid morning. Lake is calm with little swell. Everything was smooth until we rounded the point at Port Austin Reef to head south and west to Caseville. Winds around the point were SW at 10-15 giving us a sharp 1-2 foot chop on the nose. Lots of spray to wash the deck from the dirty anchor!
Travel Day 58 Leaving Caseville
When we woke, we could see a line of rain coming from the West across the bay towards us. The forecast was for stronger storms to come through over the next three days. After a "crew meeting" we decided to leave as soon as possible and scoot across the bay through the line of rain in order to shelter on the western shore (from the SW winds) for the remainder of our trip north up the coast. The forecast for these more northerly areas that we would be passing through was much better for the next few days. The rain storms only lasted about 20 minutes, at an hour into our way across, and didn't bring any appreciable wind with them. Water was lumpy with 1ft confused chop. About halfway across the mouth of the bay we decided to turn on a more northerly course to try to help with the occasionally large swells coming in from the northeast. This helped some but did not alleviate all of the lumpiness. Once we reached the opposite shore, we stayed about a mile off - in shallower water. While the seas were still lumpy and confused, the individual wave peaks were smaller. We made the remaining 20 miles to Harrisville in good time.
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Great Loop Travel Days (GLTD):
055: Port Huron MI from St. Claire MI
056: Harbor Beach MI from Port Huron MI
057: Caseville MI from Harbor Beach MI
058: Harrisville MI from Caseville MI
Map of our Overall Great Loop travel:
GLTD055 Port Huron MI (from St. Claire MI): We left St. Claire Shores at 6:00 am – before sunrise – hoping to cross Lake St. Clair before winds stirred up any chop.
There were just a few ripples on the surface when the sun began peeking into the rosy horizon.
Almost as soon as we entered the St. Clair River, we began seeing large vessels, “Lakers”. This is cargo ship Hon James L Oberstar, 807 feet long, travelling 10.9 knots.
The water surface was wavy like an antique handcrafted window.
CHURCH: Holy Cross Catholic Church was gorgeous against nature’s bright blue canvas. I was pleasantly surprised to see the church from all the way across the St. Clair River.
Father Gabriel Richard received this triangular plot of land by way of a grant from President John Quincy Adams on April 1, 1825. […] The present church edifice, the second to stand on the site, was built in 1903. A bell, which formerly hung in the original church, was cast in Normandy, France, in 1825. The tracker organ in the church was built in 1861 and is one of the earliest American-built models in Michigan. […] Holy Cross Parish has remained in continuous use and service to the people for over 150 years. Ref: https://www2.dnr.state.mi.us/publications/pdfs/ArcGISOnline/StoryMaps/mhc_historical_markers/pdfs/MHC741977020.pdf
This 90-second video from St. Clair County Regional Educational Service Agency gives an interesting overview of the church.
Throughout the morning, we encountered a few large wakes (from large boats) that we had to bear off course and into, but the ride was generally calm. Traffic and wakes got heavier, though, as the day went along.
This vessel “Tipanic”, however, did not create a problem for us. 😊
I could not find firm information about the Tipanic, but it was photographed, in previous years, during the annual unsanctioned St. Clair River Float Down.
During the upcoming 2021 event, USCG has established a temporary safety zone for the navigable waters near Port Huron, MI. Though this is an unsanctioned, non-permitted marine event, this zone is necessary to provide for the safety of life on the navigable waters […]
The St. Clair River is quite industrialized on both the US & Canadian shores. There are homes on both sides, but many are facing factories & smokestacks across the 1/2-mile-wide river on the opposite country’s shore.
These photos show homes on the US side (top) and their view of the Canadian shore (bottom).
After turning onto Black River, and waiting to open 2 bridges, we arrived in Port Huron at River Street Marina.
After getting wedged in the 1st slip (too narrow), having an extra "dolphin" infringing on the width of the 2nd slip assignment, and then a loose piling on 3rd assignment, we finally secured SCOUT in a slip. Fourth time's the charm! 😊
The dock hand, who was getting instructions from the office a long way from the wide slip area, was very helpful – and kept his cool (as did we). Thankfully, there is not a lot of current in the Black River, but the current that was there, coupled with a cross-wind made things interesting.
Since we had only snacked for lunch, we were both starving. We freshened up and went straight for late lunch/early dinner.
Not to Miss: Food: Vintage Tavern c.1904 is in the original building of F.W. Woolworth, and still has original tin ceiling, hardwood floors & brick walls (some of which you can see in the photos below).
Ref: https://vintagetavern.net/about/ (And the building may be haunted 👀. Yikes!)
It has a balcony overlooking the town, with a distant view of the Black and St. Clair Rivers. My Chicken Caprese was fantastic!
While enjoying coffee the next morning, I saw a couple of black squirrels. I had forgotten about these (from when my sister and brother-in-law lived in Port Huron)!
Almost all the black squirrels in Michigan are a color variation of the common Eastern gray squirrel, not a separate species. Squirrel experts say the color of their fur keeps helps them retain heat, a benefit during Michigan’s harsh winters, but can also make black squirrels stick out— especially against the snow — making them easier prey.
Ref: https://www.freep.com/story/news/local/michigan/2016/01/23/black-squirrels-in-michigan/78362460/
Chores: While Ray changed the oil in both engines, I made gluten-free brownies and muffins for the freezer. We then scootered 3 miles, round-trip, to the auto parts store to recycle the used oil and restock with new oil. Ray transported 1 gallon in the scooter rack and 1 gallon in his backpack.
On the way to the auto parts store on the scooters, we had lunch overlooking the Black River at Wings Etc., which is also the location of Black & Blue Brewery – where the Black River meets the blue water of the St. Clair River. Clever name!
There were not many gluten-free options. 🙁
Not to Miss: Food: Raven Café is in a civil war era building – one of the oldest structures in the area. Since they offer gluten-free bread options, we went there for dinner. I was excited for a BLT, and it did not disappoint! Neither did the espresso martini. Ray enjoyed the small selection of craft beers. The delicious food was complemented by the eclectic décor – inspired by the iconic American writer and poet Edgar Allen Poe.
History: We spent one afternoon scootering out to the Bridge To Bay Trail that runs along the St. Clair River. This is the Blue Water Bridge (Canada is on the right).
🔷 Boater Tip: Understand currents in the waters your travel, as well as the impact to your boat’s average speed. Know your boat’s average speed -- with no current -- at optimal RPM.
Boaters hear a lot about the fierce current running south under the Blue Water Bridge, leaving the St. Clair River to enter Lake Huron. The “Blue River” exhibit sign explains it well.
The width of the St. Clair River beneath the Blue Water Bridges is 835 feet.
The average width of the St. Clair River downstream is 2,000 feet.
The average speed of the surface water at the Blue Water Bridges is 3.3 mph.
The average speed of the surface water downstream is 1.7 mph.
We’ll get to experience that 3.3 mph foul current when we leave Port Huron and continue north.
Interesting fact: The average discharge of the St. Clair River (flow rate) is around 188,000 cubic feet per second. The Mississippi River at St. Louis has a similar discharge average; however the Mississippi grows tremendously as it heads further south reaching a discharge average of 600,000 cubic feet [per second] at New Orleans.
Wow! 😮
We’ll get to experience that fast favorable current in a couple of months when we head south.
International Flag Plaza has several interesting exhibits. One is the explanation of the “Blue River” (above).
Another is the 43rd Parallel Exhibit, which marks the point in Port Huron that straddles the 43-degree north latitude line.
Interesting fact: The 43rd parallel runs through 11 states and 20 countries.
Thomas Alva Edison is a revered figure in Port Huron, where he lived during his childhood (1854 - 1863).
The Thomas Edison Depot Museum, near the Blue Water Bridge commemorates Edison’s first job selling newspapers and candy on the local railroad that ran through Port Huron to Detroit.
Edison was seven [when] his family moved [from Milan, Ohio] to Port Huron, Michigan. Edison lived here until he struck out on his own at the age of sixteen.
This Thomas Alva Edison statue is nearby.
This Edison memorial is in the Pine Grove Park playground, not far from the home where Edison grew up.
Huron Lightship Museum is currently closed for repairs.
Lightships are floating lighthouses that are anchored in areas where it was too deep, expensive, or impractical to construct a lighthouse. Lightships displayed a light at the top of a mast and, in areas of fog, also sounded a fog signal and radio beacon.
Huron, 97-feet long with a 24-foot beam (width), was commissioned in 1921 and retired in 1970 -- the last operating lightship on the Great Lakes. Her light could be seen 14 miles away on clear nights. In 1935, she was assigned to the Corsica Shoals, a few miles north of Port Huron, where there had been frequent freighter ship groundings.
Ref: Michigan Historic Marker (onsite)
Churches:
Grace Episcopal Church, c.1911
St. Joseph Catholic Church, c.1923
GLTD056 Harbor Beach MI (from Port Huron MI): We dropped lines at 6:00 am and requested 2 bridge openings to leave the Black River. Thankfully, the operators were up early for us!
Within an hour, it was time to experience the strong foul current as we passed under the Blue Water Bridges toward Lake Huron.
We think we had at least 4 knots against us; our speed dropped to 2.7 knots, even though Ray was hugging the Canadian side--inside the curve, which should have had the least current. Wow! 😮
As we entered Lake Huron, the sun was rising behind a large group of Canadian fishermen on the east side. (This side of the river/lake is Canadian.)
On the U.S. side, Fort Gratiot lighthouse, Michigan’s oldest lighthouse, seemed to stand watch over the border. 😊
Lake Huron seas were calm. Wind started low, 5-10 mph, and eventually died to zero apparent wind. Ray spent a little time on the bow, something he enjoys, but hasn’t had the opportunity to do for a while.
At noon, seas were still fine; there was still very little wind and still nothing to see on the lake. I kept thinking of the line from Obi-wan Kenobe in Star Wars, "Nothing to see here ... move along... move along."
📞 Future stay marina planning:
I reserved a slip – several weeks in advance -- in the popular harbor of Charlevoix.
I tried to reserve a slip in one of our upcoming ports, Harrisville Harbor, but the Michigan NDR online system would not allow me to book.
🔷 Boater Tip: Michigan’s DNR reservation system is a great tool – most of the time, but the system has some functionality “issues” (bugs). In these cases, you may need to call the marina directly.
Because SCOUT’s beam is 16 feet, it is wider than the system allows for SCOUT’s length. The problem is that the system also does not allow me to reserve a slip that is LONGER than my boat.
I then called the 800# for help with the reservation, but the system would not allow the representative to book either, so she recommended I use a different marina. (There was no other option in the harbor.)
Finally, I called Harrisville Harbor directly and was able to secure a “soft” hold for the correct-sized slip.
By early afternoon, we were entering Harbor Beach to anchor.
As you can see from the chart below, Harbor Beach is surrounded by breakwaters.
Background: In the 1800’s, ships sailing up the Michigan coast of Lake Huron were protected from the prevailing westerly wind by the Michigan landmass until they reached Saginaw Bay. There the winds and storms blew unobstructed the length of the bay and often created treacherous, sometimes fatal conditions for schooners trying to cross the bay.
When the weather prevented the schooners from crossing the bay, they had to turn back and head for the safety of the St. Clair River, some 80 miles to the south. Great Lake captains demanded the government build a harbor where they could seek shelter from the Lake Huron storms.
In 1883, a new harbor was completed. The one mile by three mile long harbor with 650 acres of anchorage was enclosed by three breakwalls, with entrances at the north and east.
⚓Anchored. We enjoyed a quiet evening in the secure Harbor Beach anchorage. At sunset, the horizon was barely visible between the water and sky.
GLTD057 Caseville MI (from Harbor Beach MI): Ray started hauling anchor around 6:00 am. He had to clear A LOT of grass from the anchor and chain, so we did not leave the harbor for another 30 minutes.
The seas were flat, but not glassy. We probably had 8 mph winds from the stern quarter (shoreside).
By late morning, after we rounded the top of the “thumb” to head south to Caseville, winds increased to 10-15 mph on the nose (bow), and we took some spray over the bow. The ride was a little rolly, but tolerable, and I was still able to work at the computer.
What is this “thumb” I mentioned?
Interesting fact: Michigan is referred to as the ‘mitten state” because it’s Lower Peninsula is shaped like a mitten. Michigan is the only U.S. state to be divided into two large separate land areas (peninsulas) and to be bordered by four of the five Great Lakes. It also has the longest shoreline, about 3,300 miles in the continental U.S.
Caseville is in Huron County – the red tip of the “thumb” (near the bottom right).
We pulled into the service dock of Caseville Municipal Marina a little after noon for a pump-out before settling in to a 60-foot slip (to accommodate SCOUT’s wide beam).
This is a neat little marina, with clean restrooms, a boater lounge, and 2 sets of coin laundry machines. It was also quiet, despite having a busy boat ramp 100 feet away from us.
(Somehow, I had been able to reserve this longer slip using the Michigan DNR system. In my programming days, we called these unexpected results "features". 😊)
Sightseeing: After giving SCOUT a wash (and knocking down as many spiders as we could find), we walked 3/4 mile to see The Crawford House, built in the mid-1850s (now a chiropractor office).
Church:
Caseville United Methodist Church, c.1874.
Since early days of photography this Church is one of the most photographed buildings in the State of Michigan.
In the thoughtful words of Dr. Harry Fox, son of a founding member of the Church, “This is my Church… guard her well, for she is the most precious treasure Caseville has. … her spire has pointed the way to the river’s mouth for the mariner … her sanctuary has pointed the way for the souls of her people to the throne of God.”
Thumb Brewery is housed in a c.1890 building. It had a nice, inviting outdoor garden area.
Not to Miss: Food: Beachy’s is a creatively decorated restaurant with great food and friendly staff. Ray enjoyed Dynamite Shrimp, and I enjoyed a gluten-free Beach (rice) Bowl. We loved the “shade” umbrella treatment on the patio!
GLTD058 Harrisville MI (from Caseville MI): We got up around 5:30 am. During the captain’s weather review, we discussed radar showing storms moving into our current area, and decided to "make a run" across Saginaw Bay to hug the western coast of Lake Huron. If weather got too bad, we would duck in somewhere before Harrisville.
We left Caseville at 6:00 am. I’ve never seen such a blue morning! I know the photo is out of focus from lack of light, but I had to include it. We were cruising into a blue abyss! Gorgeous!
We saw a large red sun rising into the deep blue abyss. Unfortunately, none of our cameras could capture the colors and the size of the great big "star".
An hour into our long day, we had 0 - 1-foot waves, but the more we ventured out of the protection of the “thumb”, the more swell we encountered from starboard (right) moving across from the open water of Lake Huron.
This series of pictures shows the swell “from where I sat”. You can see the horizon changing through the window. Swells were about 6 seconds apart. (I guess I didn’t get a shot of the “max” water line across my “window gauge”. There would be no computer work today, but I tried to take copious notes on my phone to use in the blog for this travel leg.
We just missed a heavy storm passing over us from port (left); there will probably be more throughout the day.
Within an hour, the radar was clear, so we pointed north to head into the swell and hopefully reduce the roll.
By 10am, we were still in swells, but less extreme, so I was able to get some blogging done on the computer. However, this turned out to be a core workout day. Lean left -- Lean right -- Lean left …..
🟠 Flexibility Afloat: We learned the grocery store where we had planned to provision at today’s stop is closed (Sunday). 🙁
We had planned to anchor at Presque Isle (with no groceries) after today’s stop; but with a need for a grocery store and bad weather predicted to push south through the mid-areas of Lake Huron, we began making alternate plans for travel the next few days – to provision and to try to stay north of bad weather.
NOTE: Yes, we just stocked with Instacart, but we generally don't use Instacart for cold items (like milk and ice cream) and things we like to choose in person (like meats and produce).
By mid-day, we docked (in the rain) at Harrisville Harbor Marina – another nice Michigan state-subsidized marina, with nice restrooms and boater lounge, 2 sets of coin laundry machines, loaner bicycles and a dog run area.
Once the rain cleared, Ray made another pass with the “spider Swiffer”. 😊
You can see fellow looper mv Destiny in the photo – across the dock from SCOUT. (We first met them in Waterford.) And mv Seeker was there with them. (We first met him in Port Huron.)
On the way to the local brewery, we passed this serene “meditation garden” (part of the Harbor Park, I think).
Not to Miss: Food: Alcona Brew Haus is housed in an old Biergarten, Muehlbeck's Bavarian Village, built in 1950. I found an old postcard online. Very cool!
Yes, it’s a 3-mile round-trip walk (or bicycle ride), but it was worth it. Most of the distance is along a main highway, but there is a wide shoulder to walk on.
From my internet research, it seems the stone fireplace and beer stein doorway are original.
The Sunday we were there they offered smoked ribs and brisket. It must have been my lucky day -- I got the last half-rack of ribs available! Everything we had was tasty!
What’s next?
We will make our way north on Lake Huron (to the top of the mitten) to explore the Les Cheneaux Islands and Mackinac Island.
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