Great Loop Overall Statistics to date:
Statute Miles: 5792.4
Average Miles/Day: 51.3
Total Hours Underway: 767.1
Average speed (mph): 7.6
States Transited: 19
Total Days: 218
Travel Days: 113
Locks: 75
Fuel Purchased: 1584.3
Miles / Gallon: 3.5
Nights at Extra Days
Marinas: 63 122
Anchor: 36 6
City dock: 6 1
Free Wall: 9 4
Mooring: 0 0
Travel Day 110 - Leaving Steinhatchee
We left Sea Hag marina at first light for the long, 40-minute, overly cautious trip out the shallow channel from Steinhatchee back out into the Gulf of Mexico. Out in the Gulf, there was a leftover 2ft swell from the WNW. Our target route put these waves right on the beam and it was uncomfortable. We decided to take two approaches to try to help - first, we would try tacking back and forth as the shoreline and reefs allowed, putting the waves first on the bow quarter, then on the stern quarter. Second, we would try to travel mostly in the "skinny" water nearer shore, the shallow water leveling out the highest swells. This strategy seemed to work, but required careful attention to the water, watching for crab pots and to the depth sounder watching for uncharted shoals. After we got out around Suwanee Reef, we were able to turn more southerly and could maintain a straight, more southeasterly course to clear Cedar Key. We had planned to anchor somewhere around the channel entrance at Homosassa, FL, but it appeared after we crossed the reef at Cedar Key that it would be still too exposed to the WNW swell that was refusing to die down. The swell would make for an uncomfortable night at anchor there. Instead, once passed Seahorse Key, we turned up into a shallows area that had enough 2-3ft of water to the NW to dampen the swells coming in, and we had a comfortable, but noisy (from the small choppy water), night anchored out in the open -- 2-3 miles from any shore!
Travel Day 111 Leaving Cedar Key
We headed south early as it was going to be 9-10 hours to Clearwater. We would skip the traditional looper entry into Tarpon Springs. East wind at 8-10 with forecast 1ft waves on the beam. The one footers soon became 2ft when the wind piped up to 14mph. We tacked in closer to shore, but we could only get in so close as, again, the shoal areas extend out 2-3 miles. On top of that, the density of crab pots increases the closer you get to shore. We finally found a happy medium and the winds were supposed to die off as the day wore on. They did, as we entered Anclote channel inside the islands to make the final approach into Clearwater. We were tied up by early afternoon at some very nice docks at the Clearwater Harbor Marina.
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Great Loop Travel Days (GLTD):
110: Cedar Key FL from Steinhatchee FL
111: Clearwater FL from Cedar Key FL
Map of our Overall Great Loop travel:
GLTD110 Cedar Key FL (from Steinhatchee FL): We departed Sea Hag Marina at first light – 6:30 AM.
As we reentered the Gulf of Mexico before the sun rose, a dimly lit sky melted into the sea, around the marsh.
Gulf waters were flat, and wind was only 7 mph from WNW. The wind was forecast to swing around to the east by end of day, however, but the land to the east would protect us at anchor just off the coast.
Though cell service was weak, it was good enough to post our Monday morning blog.
Nebo showed another large group of looper boats leaving from Carrabelle to cross today. One group was headed to Steinhatchee. Another group was making the longer crossing toward Tarpon Springs or Clearwater. I guess they saw the same good weather window we saw.
There was a little more swell than we had expected. To keep the swell off our beam (side), Ray pointed west for a bit before turning southeast toward our destination.
For the first time since our sailing days (many years ago), we were plotting “tacking” strategies. Tacking is when you zigzag toward your destination instead of cruising directly toward it. Sailboats usually tack to make progress when the wind is directly on the “nose” (bow). We were tacking to avoid swells and waves that made our cruise less comfortable.
By mid-morning, we had made the turn, seas were from behind, and I could tolerate the seas for short periods to go below to heat our breakfast bowls. “Just Crack An Egg”!
Shortly after the turn, since we were now able to maintain 7.2 kts, we decided to travel a long today, instead of stopping right in Cedar Key, to reduce tomorrow's travel time to Clearwater.
This was our view for most of the day – bright skies and relatively flat seas.
⚓Anchored. By mid-afternoon, we were anchored off-shore at Cedar Key.
Weather was nice – and seas were flat enough – to enjoy an all-secure beverage on the cockpit. Except for a few birds, and a few fishing boats, we were alone – 2-3 miles off-shore.
We saw an amazing orange sunset!
GLTD111 Clearwater FL (from Cedar Key FL): We hauled anchor from Cedar Key and started cruising by 6:30. We had a long day ahead of us!
Seas were almost flat with a 1-foot chop on the beam (side), in 8-10 kts of wind (from East).
Less than 2 hours into the cruise, wind increased to 13 mph and waves had increased to 1-2 feet, so Ray tacked into shallower water. We knew that would probably increase the number of crab pots, though.
Late morning, we lost AT&T and Verizon. We were "dead in the water".
Ok, … maybe that's not the best choice of words for the situation. 🙄 Maybe "unplugged" is better.
Well.... never mind.... let's just stick with "we had no cell service."
By mid-morning we were ~15 miles offshore.
Just before noon, we tried turning in toward shore to change the direction of the waves against the hull.
It was even more rolly! My binoculars fell down the stairs and broke in half. 😮 I guess my plan to have the binoculars hold the navigation tablet securely in place failed. 🤔
Well, at least we have 5 hours down! Only 5 hours to go! 🤞
Since there was no internet, I could not blog (at the computer). Since it was rolly, bow photography was also out. So, I spent most of the day crocheting.
🟠 Life Afloat Tip: It’s good to find a small-space hobby for those rare travel days when the typical “cruising” activities are not possible.
I can “kill time” crocheting dish cloths, microwave bowl cozies, baby teething rings (for new family members), and toys for growing children in the family. You know … things I can give away – a good idea for someone who lives on a boat and has limited space to keep everything they make. 😊
Below are some of the crochet projects I’ve completed while cruising.
Puppy Christmas Stocking. Disappearing pumpkin doll. Clemson Tiger Teething Ring.
About 6 hours in, the wind died to 2mph -- exactly when the Windy app predicted. The seas flattened out finally!
Just before we got to Clearwater, just past Tarpon Springs, we were back "inside" -- on the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (IWW). The rest of our loop travel should be "inside" (the protective barrier islands).
We arrived in Clearwater and docked at Clearwater Harbor Municipal Marina before 5:00 pm. I walked to the dockmaster’s office to check in.
7/10 of the earth’s surface is water, but it isn’t all drinkable: With just 3 travel days remaining on our loop, this is the FIRST marina who have suggested we get drinking water from the water fountain in the lobby of the restrooms - UNLESS we have a filter on our boat.
🟠 Life Afloat Tip: It is good to know that the water you put in your fresh water tank is potable (drinkable).
Some of the steps we take to ensure clean water are below:
1. Sediment Filter: SCOUT uses a sediment (non-charcoal) filter to filter the water before it enters the tank. It is our opinion that the charcoal removes chlorine and that is a GOOD thing to be putting in your tank. We save the charcoal filtering for after the water comes out of the tank. The sediment filter is a big-box store under-sink model with garden hose adapters fitted. 2. Charcoal Filter: SCOUT has a charcoal filter installed on one of our sink spigots for cooking and drinking as well as one inside the refrigerator, that is used for the icemaker and in-door water dispenser. 3. Smell Test: When SCOUT is in a remote marina (where there are no liveaboards to ask about the water), we perform a simple 24-hour “water test”. We got this idea from SCOUT’s previous owners (POs).
From the spigot you would like to fill tanks from, let the water run for a minute or 2 (to clear out any sediment).
Then fill a glass (or disposable cup) with water, and let it sit for 24-hours.
If there is no harsh smell or taste, and no visible “thingies” floating around after 24-hours, it is probably OK to fill your tanks.
4. Chemical test strip: Finally, when I want to be sure there are no weird chemicals in the water, I run a test strip (purchased on Amazon). I’m no expert but, from what I’ve learned, chloramine cannot be removed by boiling water – it must be filtered out with charcoal.
5. Bacteria test strip: If you are concerned about bacteria in the water, I believe there are test kits you can purchase & mail in for results. While this is probably not a practical solution for filling tanks while cruising, it may be a good idea if you suspect there is bacteria already in your tanks.
Both the 24-hour test and the chemical test strip results were acceptable to us, so we will fill the tanks some time before we leave for our next destination.
Secure Marina: This is also the first marina where the gate security is managed by a phone app.
We stayed here for almost 2 weeks since we had planned for a visit from our son for Thanksgiving! 😊
Not to Miss: Food: After 10 hours of cruising, we walked 1 mile for dinner at Cristino's Coal Oven Pizza. I went for Gluten-Free pasta, but Ray's 4-cheese pizza was also awesome! Well worth the walk!This seemed to be a “locals” favorite, and it was obvious why. Great food, classic music, cozy atmosphere.A bonus, this time of year, was festive Christmas decorations! Warning: after you have the free sample of gelato after dinner, you will probably order a small gelato – and you’ll be glad you did. 😊
Not to Miss: Food: We ate at Roxy's Bistro several times during our stay in Clearwater. They had quality food, and the selection of beer and wine was good.
Not to Miss: Food: We also enjoyed Clear Sky on Cleveland several times.
Looper Docktails – mv C Marie invited mv Flying Colors and mv SCOUT over for cocktails before dinner one night. C Marie is a fellow Great Harbour; we had conversed via the Great Harbour forum but had never met in person. SCOUT had played hopscotch with Flying Colors down the rivers and locks, but we had never formally met each other.
We walked up to Clear Sky on Cleveland for dinner outside, where we also listened to a talented singer/guitarist. Both C Marie and Flying Colors are just a few weeks into their loop. We had no trouble making conversation, exchanging looping stories. Our server was surprised to learn we had just met! 😊
Fred Marquis Pinellas Trail: This pedestrian/bicycle trail runs 50 miles from St. Petersburg through Tarpon Springs, and on to the Pasco County line. Eventually, the Pinellas Trail is planned to expand into a 75-mile loop throughout Pinellas County. My previous co-workers will be interested to know that the expansion will include the 4-mile Duke Energy Trail.
In 2007, the Pinellas Trail was inducted into the Rail-Trail Hall of Fame and its importance and impact continue to grow as it is not only part of the 75-mile loop project, but also plays a role in the Florida Coast-To-Coast Trail, a developing 250-mile route across the state from the Gulf of Mexico on its west side to the Atlantic Ocean on its east end.
Clearwater Jolley Trolley: Hop on the Clearwater Jolley Trolley for a fun and unique way to see Clearwater Beach, Sand Key and the surrounding Coastal Towns of North Pinellas, including Downtown Clearwater, Dunedin, Palm Harbor and Tarpon Springs. Our friendly drivers act as “Concierge on Wheels” and are always happy to point out local attractions, share fun facts and recommend great local restaurants and breweries.
Since we would be in Clearwater for almost 2 weeks, we took advantage of the Jolley Trolley several times to tour a few of the towns we skipped on our southward cruise. These included Tarpon Springs, Palm Harbor and Dunedin.
Chores: While in harbor, we got some chores and business taken care of. Ray gave SCOUT a good wash, and I cleaned inside. I baked some Gluten-Free muffins to replenish my freezer supply, and Ray performed some preventive maintenance. This included two oil changes, taking oil samples to be sent out for evaluation, and replacing both impellers which now had 600 hours on them.
Ray also replaced the solar vent in the forward hatch which had stopped working – our long(er) stay here in Clearwater allowed us to order a replacement.
Dunedin – “Extended Adventure” Day Trip: One day, we needed to make a trip to a Verizon store for a new MIFI. (Our old AT&T device/plan made it almost all the way around the loop with us. 🙁) We determined the most convenient store would be in Palm Harbor (accessible as a stop on the Jolley Trolley).
We bought round-trip trolley passes and boarded in Clearwater – with our scooters.
We ran into another looper couple, mv Varlabania (who we met back in Ottawa IL)! They were on their way to have lunch in Tarpon Springs and decided to meet us in Dunedin (after our Verizon trek – and after lunch) to visit a couple of Dunedin breweries. After all, he was wearing his “Drink Wisconsinbly” shirt. 😊
We got off the trolley in Palm Harbor and scootered 5 miles, round-trip, to the Verizon store.
After lunch at Smugglers Island Pub in Palm Harbor, we scootered 5 miles on the Pinellas Trail to Dunedin.
Along the way, we made a quick stop at Hammock Park & butterfly garden, one of the many parks along the trail. The historic Andrews Memorial Chapel there is beautiful.
Originally built in the late 1880’s, the chapel is one of the oldest buildings in the area.
I had to stop for a picture of this home along the bike trail, appropriately decorated for Christmas. 😊
Since we visited several breweries, it was good that most of them offered small pours.
🍺 7venth Sun Brewing Company: Ray had a “Headbanger IPA” from here on our lunch stop.
Then, mv Varlabania arrived and joined us at Cueni Brewing. Yay! GREAT BEER LOOP!
🍺 Cueni Brewing had an awesome vibe inside & out (right by the bike trail), as well as an awesome beer selection. My Expresso My Guord coffee-pumpkin ale was delicious and came with a cinnamon sugar rim!
🍺 Caledonia Brewing is in the 1925 Dunedin Times building. The brewery had a Scottish theme, honoring Dunedin’s sister city, Stirling, Scotland.
🍺 HOB Brewing has a huge outdoor space, right beside the bike trail. A very large selection of beers available!
Tarpon Springs – Day Trip: We bought an all-day trolley pass to travel to and from Tarpon Springs.
Note: Due to construction along the waterfront, the downtown stop was moved from Cleveland Street to the main library (close to Marina dockmaster office). We recommend you call Jolley Trolley to confirm the stop & route schedule – they seem to be a bit confusing.
Food: We started with lunch at Dimitri's On The Water. Since the town has a Greek heritage, we wanted Greek food. When in Athens.... 😊 Later we had dinner at Back Draughts Pizza. Ray got a personal pizza, and I had a small Gluten-Free pizza.
History - Sponge Industry and Greek Heritage: In 1876 A.W. Ormond of South Carolina and his teenage daughter Mary became the first settlers of Tarpon Springs, building a cabin near Spring Bayou. It was Mary who, in 1879, proposed their tiny settlement be named Tarpon Springs, after the giant Tarpon that jumped and splashed in the bayou.
For Tarpon Springs, the boom started in 1887 when railroad service to New York was initiated. Wealthy Northerners came to this popular destination and built beautiful Victorian mansions; established churches, schools and hotels; and started businesses.
Because the waters surrounding this area were teeming with sponges, divers from Greece came here and soon developed a flourishing sponge industry. The many Greeks who migrated here also set up enticing restaurants, pastry shops, and markets giving the area a Mediterranean mystique.
The busy sponge docks were decorated for Christmas.
Interesting Observation: Tarpon Springs seems to be a “retro” town, with both a vintage toy store and a vintage arcade game museum.
We visited 5 (!!) breweries throughout the day, wrapping up with our last brewery after dinner – before catching the Jolley Trolley back to Clearwater Harbor. Fortunately, again, most of these breweries offered small pours.
🍺 5 Branches Brewing (left) is named for the 5 branches of military. It had a small, cozy vibe.
🍺 Brighter Days Brewing (right) offered nice indoor and outdoor space, right beside the Pinellas Trail. They had a great nitro espresso milk stout
🍺 Unrefined Brewing is in a c.1912 house on Tarpon Avenue. Great selection - IPAs, Pumpkins, stouts, porter. My favorite aspect of this brewery was the vintage table arcade game – free to play.
GAME ON! ---- Galaga competition! I won the first game – and that’s what counts! 😉
🍺 Two Frogs Brewing is housed in an old drug store dating back to 1895.
Chocolate Coconut Brown Ale, Maple Porter, IPA’s -- too many for one stop!
🍺 Silver King Brewing is in the original c.1909 Tarpon Springs Jail & 1950’s Fire House buildings. The taproom has a warm hunting cabin feel.
Clearwater Beach – Day Trip: After getting a few chores done, we walked 2.8 miles (1 hour) across the bridge from our marina to Clearwater Beach. (We planned to get some exercise one-way, then ride the trolley back.) We stopped at one of the lookouts on the bridge to get this photo of SCOUT in the marina.
🌎 Small World: We had lunch at Marina Cantina. While I was wearing my Carolina Panthers shirt on football Sunday, we learned our server had recently moved here from Charlotte!
Although it was cloudy, there were a lot of people out on the “sugar white” beach. It was really a pretty beach and location.
Clyde Butcher Photography: Recommended by mv Flying Colors, we walked a couple of blocks to the main library in Clearwater to see the large exhibit of black and white prints from Butcher’s Everglades photographs. Not only did we enjoy looking at the fantastic images, we also learned about the artist and his techniques and inspirations.
This is one of the large-format cameras he uses. I can try to image hauling this out into the swamps of the Everglades!
While in Dunedin for Thanksgiving, Ray visited the last few breweries nearby.
🍺 Soggy Bottom Brewery: (left) I liked the tractor seat/keg bottom bar stools. Basic brewery vibe, good nitro stout!
🍺 Dunedin Brewery (right) is Florida's oldest microbrewery. They had several cool spaces, a house, a warehouse/garage, and outdoor space.
🍺 Woodwright Brewing Company has a German vibe and beer selection. They have a fantastic on-site kitchen called the Duneatery with fantastic German fare. The beer garden was brightly lit for the holidays.
Woodwright Nautical History: In 1947, the first Optimist Pram Boat was built by Clark “Clarkie” Mills (1915-2001) in this building. […] Clarkie came up with the design of an inexpensive boat for children to build at home and be able to operate and sail in races. […] Clarkie donated the pram design and patent rights to the Optimist Club, and this same design is still in use today throughout the world. The original 12 wooden prams delivered to the Dunedin Boat Club were built in this shop. Ref: http://woodwrightbrewing.com/the-history/
In case you have lost count, there are eight breweries in Dunedin!
Airbnb “staycation”: We had a relaxing Thanksgiving in the “Adorable Coastal Sunset House Dunedin PinellasTrl” (Airbnb).
What’s next? We have just 3 travel days left to cross our wake in Fort Myers! We hope to raise our gold loop flag in the next blog (which will be near-real-time for the first time)!
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